Jo’s Blog: My whirlwind three days in beautiful Baltic gem, Estonia

Over the years, I’ve grown used to the slightly envious side-eyes from friends and family as I head off on yet another trip to “learn more about a destination”. My half-hearted protests of “it’s work, not pleasure” never quite land - mainly because, while I may not be lounging poolside with a cocktail in hand, everyone knows I’m happiest when I’m out exploring somewhere new.

As a long-standing lover of all things Scandi (and yes, I know Estonia’s Baltic, but let’s not split hairs), this one had been on my radar for a while.

So, when Nordic Travel Solutions invited me to spend three days discovering what it had to offer, I leapt at the chance with barely concealed glee.

I’m not sure what I was expecting - grey skies, heavy food, and even heavier faces - but Estonia took me completely by surprise. Full of charm, creativity and quiet confidence, it’s a country that knows what it’s about. And while it’s often pigeonholed for Christmas markets, there’s far more to explore year-round.

Our itinerary was brilliantly full-on, with barely a moment to pause - just the way I like it. Bedtime is the only downtime when you take your travel education seriously. 😉

Day 1: From medieval city to Art Nouveau beach in under two hours

London Stansted → Tallinn: 2h 40m

Tallinn → Pärnu (road): 1h 50m

Bicycle tour: 1.5h

We were up bright and early for a direct flight from Stansted to Tallinn - an absolute joy to arrive in under three hours. Any longer and I start twitching (legs first, face shortly after).

It was a chilly but sunny welcome as I met the lovely Eliina from Nordic Travel Solutions, who led us to a stylish mall just a short walk from the terminal. A quick (and delicious) pasta lunch set the tone while we waited for the rest of the group arriving from other corners of the UK.

Once reunited, we hopped into a very swish minibus (with great Wi-Fi) for the scenic drive south to Estonia’s southwest coast.

Think vast flat forests, pretty lakes and bogs straight out of a fairytale.

(Fun fact: in Estonia, you’re never more than 10km from one. A sentence I didn’t expect to say on a fam trip).

Our first stop was Pärnu, Estonia’s relaxed summer capital. Beach-meets-spa culture with sandy stretches, shallow waters and a long-standing wellness reputation.

We checked into the fabulous Hedon Spa & Hotel, right on the seafront and housed in the old mud baths - history on the outside, boutique calm on the inside.

What’s behind Room 317, Jo? Is there a room tour you can share with us? Oh, go on then…

The hotel has a swimming zone with indoor and outdoor pools, and the gloriously serene Silent Spa - a tech-free haven rooted in ancient rituals and Dead Sea products. It’s a self-guided, 2-3 hour experience of pure unwind. Whispering encouraged. Bliss mandatory.

Despite a 13-year break from anything two-wheeled, I was coaxed into a gentle cycling tour along Pärnu’s beach promenade. And I loved it.

Our brilliant guide, Veronika, kept us informed via headsets and even treated us to homemade Linden tea and biscuits at a mid-point stop. (Yes, I’m still thinking about them).

Before we got back on our bikes, she introduced us to the Waste Mate - a brilliantly simple bit of eco-tech that made binning our rubbish oddly satisfying.

The town oozes character and it’s easy to picture it buzzing in high season - grand summer villas, laid-back cafés and quirky sculptures, including several elephants. There’s a story behind them... but you'll have to visit to hear it properly.

Back at the hotel for a quick change, we headed out again - this time for a seriously good dinner at Mon Ami. I started with lobster soup and followed it with a seafood platter so good I nearly ordered it twice.

Day 2: Island hopping, schnapps sipping and a surprise wine crush

Virtsu → Muhu Island (ferry): 27min

Muhu → Kuressaare on Saaremaa Island (road): 1h

We started the day with an hour of quiet contemplation in the Silent Spa (never not squeezing that in), followed by a heroic breakfast and a suitcase shuffle before hitting the road to Virtsu, where we boarded the ferry to Muhu Island.

Estonia has over 2,000 islands scattered across the Baltic - think the Greek isles, but with more bogs, fewer crowds, and a strong chance someone will offer you homemade schnapps.

Saaremaa is the largest, home to windmills, crater lakes, castles and craft beer. Muhu, the gateway island, charms with thatched cottages, local crafts... and, unexpectedly, wine.

I wasn’t exactly expecting a sophisticated wine-pairing and Michelin-level dining experience but enter Muhu Veinitalu - Estonia’s first wine tourism farm.

Family-run with big plans (10,000 vines and counting), it blends relaxed charm with serious foodie credentials. Owner Peke gave us a masterclass in presentation, opening the first bottle with the sort of ceremony usually reserved for royalty...

I fell hard for their rhubarb dessert wine – several bottles may have made their way into my suitcase. In the summer, chef Kim Paivasto works his magic in the outdoor kitchen, and lunch was every bit as good as the setting. There are also ten 'hea energia' (good energy) rooms for overnight guests. This place is a gem.

Next stop: Kuressaare, capital of Saaremaa. Think cobbled streets, a moated medieval castle, and low-key seaside vibes. Our base was the Georg Ots Spa Hotel, perfectly positioned between the bay and the castle, with both indoor and outdoor heated pools.

That evening, we headed to Saaremaa Veski, a family-owned restaurant in a converted windmill. The food was excellent, the company warm, and owner Kaupo Pastak’s schnapps tasting session... well, things escalated quickly.

He brews it himself and shares it generously. I stopped counting after the third glass, and the video evidence is probably best left in the vault. Oh, go on then... here’s a quick taster.

Day 3: Saunas, steak and a surprise Depeche Mode shrine

Kuressaare → Tallinn (flight): 40mins

Tallinn airport → Nordic Hotel Forum: 5m

After a refreshing walk around the bay and another hearty brekkie, we cabbed the short journey to the local airport and boarded our turbo-prop flight to Tallinn, where we were reunited for a final time with our legendary minibus driver, “John”.

Our final base was the Nordic Hotel Forum – brilliantly located in the city centre with everything on the doorstep. Up on the 8th floor, there’s a cracking little wellness area with a pool, sauna and gym.

More cultural and culinary delights followed, starting with lunch at the very cool Radio in Kadriorg with the ever-lovely Agnia from Visit Estonia, who had masterminded our trip.

Then it was time for our final tour, led by the charismatic and uber-cool Vidrik. Tallinn is the kind of city that charms your socks off before you’ve even had your coffee - cobbled streets, crooked towers, colourful buildings, and just beyond the Old Town, buzzing craft beer breweries, rooftop bars, food halls and districts bursting with street art. There’s even a bar dedicated entirely to Depeche Mode - sadly closed when I passed by, but very much on the list for next time.

Bonus highlight? A quick, impromptu visit to the incredible Maritime Museum, courtesy of Vidrik. Tallinn really is one of those cities that’s small enough to explore on foot, but big enough to stay interesting.

My favourite discovery was Iglupark in Noblessner - a seriously cool cluster of wooden igloo-style huts you can rent for working, chilling, or enjoying a proper Estonian sauna. It’s a short stroll from Kalamaja, Tallinn’s laid-back neighbourhood filled with wooden houses, cosy cafés, street art, vintage shops and a gentle seaside buzz.

Our three days of Estonian gastronomic eye-openers ended with a fitting finale - an evening with Enn Tobreluts and Andres Tuule, the grill masters at Harg, a modern grill house in the Maakri district. Their signature ‘dirty steak’ is cooked directly on hot charcoal. Smoky, meaty, dramatic and utterly delicious.

I took great delight in rounding up some of my culinary highlights...

Three days. Two islands. One rhubarb wine obsession. And more inspiration than I can fit into a single blog. Estonia surprised me in all the best ways. I’ll definitely be back - with my husband this time - and I can’t wait to show clients why this beautiful Baltic gem deserves a spot on their list too.

Aitäh VisitEstonia, Nordic Travel Solutions and Minty Highway for making it happen.